My guidebook ‘The Copenhagen Companion’ from 2019 includes a walk called ‘Langs vandet’, which takes you from Langebro to Fiskerihavnen in Sydhavn. In the description I mentioned plans to build in the area.
Paying the price of progress
Back then, it was just plans, and the ‘Stejlepladsen’ was an environmentally protected green area. Since then, the authorities have successfully lifted the protection of the area, despite fierce protests from the local community.
When I visited the area at the beginning of September this year, a large part of Stejlepladsen was already fenced off in preparation for the first buildings to be erected in 2023. So if you want to experience this area as it has been for decades, This really is your last chance.
The addition of 500 apartments will undoubtedly change this small neighborhood in Copenhagen, where time seems to slow down in a very laid back and likeable way. In reality, however, the area suffered a bit when the Øresund Bridge, which connects Amager with Sweden, was built. The northernmost part of Fiskerihavnen was demolished to make way for the (strangely unnamed) railway bridge that carried trains to and from Sweden.
And now the local community is paying the price for the success of the ‘Amager Fælleds Venner’ movement, which continues to fight to protect Amager Fælled. When the local authorities abandoned construction plans for the eastern part of Fælled, they went in search of other possible construction sites and spotted Stejlepladsen. What a shame!
Have a den of activity
The fishing harbor on Bådehavnsgade is a small fishing harbor built shortly after the Second World War. It was built as a port of call for commercial fishing boats and to house the fish auction that used to be located at Tømmergraven (where you now find the shopping center Fisketorvet).
It’s a quaint and quiet corner with a few commercial fishing boats still in operation and plenty of old sheds from the 1940s, giving the area an authentic maritime feel. You also get a look at the artist’s workshops and cozy houseboats. And then just around the corner you will find Stejlepladsen, where the fish used to be cleaned and hung up from the ‘steiler’ to dry.
The favored fishing around the Fishing Harbor uses nets mounted on long poles. If you take a walk around the area, you can still see huge stacks of these very long and impressive oak stakes.
What else is there to see?
If you want to experience more of this part of Copenhagen, continue your trip through Fiskerihavnen and Stejlepladsen towards Sydhavnstippen and Valbyparken.
Another interesting place in Bådehavnsgade is the recycling facility ‘Sydhavns Genbrugscenter’, where you can buy recycled building materials (and borrow a cargo bike for free), participate in workshops or become part of the laboratory for startups with a focus on recycling. Read more at sydhavngenbrugscenter.kk.dk.
Or why not go bouldering at nearby Boulders. Read more at boulders.dk/kbhsydhavn.
How do we get there?
Take the tour mentioned above. Or alternatively choose ‘The Open Green’, a walk included in ‘The Green Copenhagen Companion’, which comes from Carlsberg Station and Vestre Kirkegård, takes you right past Fiskerihavnen.
From the southernmost stop of the Havnebussen (harbour bus) at Teglholmen, it is a 1.5 km walk to Fiskerihavnen. Alternatively, you can take the S-train to Sydhavn Station and walk 1.7 km. Even closer, the 7A bus has a stop called Bådehavnsgade/Sydhavnsgade approximately 500 meters from Fiskerihavn.